Jill and her baby Jack were waiting for me in front of Sheraton. As soon as I saw baby Jack, I opened my arms to him, he immediately opened his arms back and let me hold him. (such a beautiful moment, even Jill was surprised that he was showing me so much love, I usually have to bribe him to come to me lol) It's as if baby Jack sensed my worry and fear, he let me hold him to comfort me and let me know everything was going to be okay. While the three of us made our way to the Faith Surf School stand, I was telling Jill how scared I was and how I kept thinking what if I drowned or what if there was a shark? Jill replied, "You went sky diving! This will be a piece of cake!"
When we reached the stand, Kendall was waiting for us. Kendall is Jill's husband, and professional surf instructor. They told me to grab a rash guard from the rack. After I put the rash guard on, Kendall showed me a board demonstration on the sand. First, he told me to lie on the board behind the indicator (oval shape), which reminds you to not go past that mark. He also said to use the line, to center your body in the middle of the long board. Then, he told me to cup my hands and use my arms to make a scooping motion in the sand, from the front to the back, then bringing it up and around again. This helps you move forward on your board in the water.
He then showed me how to stand up on the board, you press your hands flat onto the board, push your upper body up, then spring up your lower body so that your hands are near your feet. Then you stand up with your body turned in the direction and step first with the foot that is most comfortable for you. (for me, I turned me my body to the right) Kendall said to keep your knees bent, and even though your body is turned, keep your head turned and look straight forward. I asked what do you do with your hands, he said to place the first hand on the the same side as the foot that is stepped forward first. Then to use your other, to match the opposite side. After a couple times of practicing the land tutorial, Kendall told me to attach the board strap to my ankle.
Tourista watched the four of us (including baby Jack who is only 1 years old and who switched off riding on Jill and Kendall's board) as we carried our boards to the water, balanced on them, then paddled out into the water. We paddled out past the small reef, to a spot where it wasn't crowded. I was so thankful that we could stand in the water, the water level was only at a stomach level. (I thought we were going to go deep in the ocean! LOL) I looked over at Jack who was on Jill's board, he was so happy and fearless. He was my inspiration, I thought that if he can do it then I can too.
Jill and Kendall explained to me that in order to turn the board you stick out the side of your leg in the direction you want to go and scoop the water in the opposite direction from moving forward. Once our boards were turned against the oncoming waves, Kendall gave me some tips to catch a wave. He said, "Once you stand up, look straight forward at the pink resort. If you look down that is where you will end up." In short notice, he pushed the back of my long board and told me to start paddling. As I was paddling, I turned a little to see the wave chasing after me, that was my cue that it was go time! (lol)
The wave lifted the end tip of the board, while I followed the land tutorial directions, then stood up. I was only standing up for a few seconds, until my body flew off into the water. When I rised to the surface, I could hear Jill yelling how proud she was of me for standing up. (she said usually it takes some people the whole hour just to stand) I met back up at the spot they were at and got back on the board. Kendall also gave me a tip on how its important to stay centered and find your stance on the board, so that when you stand your not last minute trying the fix the unbalance, and get distracted and end up tipping over the sides edge.
During the middle of the private lesson, there was one wave that I caught and rode for a while. When I stood up, I slowly checked off Kendall's tips checklist in my mind, as the wave caught up underneath the surf board. I found my stance and balanced in the center, bent my knees, and looked straight at the Royal Hawaiian Resort. I could hear Jill in the background yelling "GO GIRL!" My mind drifted away in multiple thoughts, as the adrenaline rush and speed of the wave carried my weight towards a closer view of the pink panther palace. I visually indulged on the sight and admired the beautiful land mark with awe. After a couple thoughts, I crashed into the water. When I shot back up to the surface, I could hear Jill cheering in the distance.
Every time Kendall pushed me before the wave, each time I stood up. We practiced over and over again. My main challenge was staying balanced with the wave for more then a couple seconds. Each time I flung into the water, I could hear my mom's voice in my head yelling, "You need to learn how to balance Deanna!" Everyday my biggest struggle is to balance all areas of my on the go life. When I am off balance I get distracted, or I focus on one or a couple areas more than others. I sometimes get overwhelmed, there is only one of me, and I can't be everywhere all at the same time. Which is why mom always reminds me to manage my time wisely. Surfing is more than just having a good time, its a daily life metaphor, that reminds you to stay balanced. And even if you fall into the water, get back up and try again to balance, it is the only way you will move forward with the wave and in life.
Also during the session, Jill and Kendall switched off holding and watching the baby, so the other can individually surf. Baby Jack went surfing too! Kendall paddled out then held the baby at the near the front edge of the long board, while they rode the wave together. I was so impressed with how fearless baby Jack was, I admire him so much! Towards the end of the session, Jill and Jack made their was back to the shore, while Kendall let me catch a couple more waves. After a little while, we paddled back to the shore. When my feet touched the dry sand, I felt so accomplished for finally learning how to surf. (I have been living here for almost 3 years, it took me so long to do it!) I have Jill, Kendal, and Jack to thank. I am so thankful that they taught me how to surf. The whole time they were all inspiring, patient with me, and made me feel comfortable. Surfing was an awesome experience, I can't wait to go again!
Jack and Kendall
Jill and her daddy in SoCal
my hair looks crazy! LOL
battling to align my life and sight,
Deanna
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